Lucknow was not always the city of nawabs, as we know it today. In its present form it is a very young city. While very little of authentic historical evidence is available about history of Lucknow during the reign of its Hindu rulers, it is traditionally believed that it was founded by Lakshman, the brother of King Ram of Ajudhya (Ayodhya). The city in those days was known as Lakshmanpur, which gradually shortened into Lucknow. Other views, however, attribute the origin of the city to Lakhna Pasi, a local Bhar Chief, but in much later time of history. Archaeological surveys, however, make us believe that its antiquity dates back to 1700BC or even to 5000BC.
The city has, however, always been part of the Awadh region which was ruled by Sultan of Jaunpur (1394-1478). It is said that when Mahmud of Ghazni invaded India he brought with him Sheikhs and Pathans some of whom settled in Lakshmanpur. During the reign of Humayun, around 1555, Awadh became a part of the Mughal empire. Much later, Jahangir granted an estate in Awadh to a nobleman named Sheikh Abdul Rahim. His descendants were called Sheikhzadas. The Sheikhs built their palaces, and later a major mosque, on a mound known as Lakshman Teela.
During the reign of Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah, Muhammad Amin alias Sadaat Khan a noble from Saiyyad family of Nishapur in Khurasan and the progenitor of the Nawabs of Awadh, was promoted to be the Subedar of Awadh with the title of ‘Burhan-ul-Mulk’ (A.D.1732-39). During this period Awadh was ruled from Faizabad, which was the capital, and not Lucknow.
Saadat Khan was succeeded by Mansur Ali Khan who took the name of Safdarjung (A.D. 1739-53). Safdarjung, while being Subedar of Awadh, also became a Wazir of the Mughal Empire and henceforth, the rulers of Awadh came to be known as ‘Nawab Wazir’. Safdarjung’s successor Shuja-ud Daula (A.D. 1753-75) maintained Faizabad as his capital.
Asaf-ud Doula moved his capital to Lucknow, on a whim, to get away from his domineering mother
When Shuja-ud Doula died in 1773, his son Mirza Amani became Nawab, taking the name of Asaf-ud Doula. In 1775 he moved his capital from Faizabad to Lucknow. Interestingly, it is said that he moved to Lucknow on a whim to get away from his domineering mother. At this time Lucknow was not much more than a large village but Asaf-ud Doula set out to and succeeded in making Lucknow one of the most prosperous cities in India.
Asaf-ud Doula was a great builder and because of his patronage the architecture of the period evolved into a new transformed form of Mughal architecture. The Lucknow architects gave up the use of sandstone or marble which was not readily available in the near vicinity and instead adopted brick and stucco which helped them to produce imposing buildings of large dimensions consuming lesser time and money. The workmen displayed marvellous technical skill in the manipulation of these materials especially in the execution of the ornamental details and mouldings in plaster. The most famous buildings constructed by him are the Bara Imambara and the Rumi Darwaza.
Bara Imambara
An Imambara is a religious place built by Shia Muslims for the purpose of Muharram rituals. The Bara Imambara was constructed by Asaf-ud Doula as a famine relief measure during the great famine of 1784 which affected the entire Awadh region. The Nawab came up with a plan to provide employment to famine affected population through its construction. Architects throughout India were invited to compete for the plans, stating that the building was to be unique in structure and that it was to surpass every known building in grandeur. The designs of Kifayatullah, a well-known Persian architect from Delhi, were accepted and the work commenced.
It is said that to generate employment over a long period, the work completed during the day by labourers, was destroyed during the night by the noblemen. However, it is more likely that these stories were circulated to justify payments to some of the noble families who, due to their social position, could not be engaged in such menial labour. They were paid at night in the dark away from public eye.
Octagonal Side Room Octagonal Side Room
The Imambara complex consists of the main Imambara building, the mosque, known as Asafi mosque, Shahi Baoli (stepped well) and two triple gateways. The whole construction is in bricks, lime plastered and decorated with plaster mouldings with occasional use of stone while finials are made of green glazed ware. The main hall of the Imambara building with a vaulted roof, is one of the largest hall of its kind without pillar or support, measuring a hundred and sixty-three feet long by fifty-three feet wide by forty- nine and a half feet high, verandas running parallel to it and has octagonal side rooms on either side. It has raised platforms housing tazias of different materials. Above the hall, is a complicated labyrinth of galleries and corridors, also known as ‘Bhul Bhulaiya’ where visitors may lose their way. The parapet wall of the building is decorated with small openings, chhatris and minarets. In the centre of the main hall lie buried the Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, his wife Shahmsunnisa Begum and Kifayatullah, the architect.
Rev. Reginald Heber, then Lord Bishop of Calcutta, when he visited Lucknow in 1824, describes it as “two courts, rising with a steep ascent one above the other. It contains, besides a splendid mosque, a college for instruction in Mussulman law, apartments for the religious establishment maintained here, and a noble gallery, in the midst of which, under a brilliant tabernacle of silver, cut glass, and precious stones, lie buried the remains of its founder Asuphud Dowla. The whole is in a very noble style of eastern Gothic, and when taken in conjunction with the Roumi Durwazu which adjoins it, I have never seen an architectural view which pleased me more from its richness and variety , as well as the proportions and general good taste of its main features.”
At an angle, facing east stands a majestic mosque known as Asafi Masjid. This also was constructed during this period.
Rumi Darwaza
At right angles to the Imambara complex stands the Rumi Darwaza, or Turkish Gate which turns its finest architectural face to Hussainabad. From the Great Imambara it is seen as a massive structure with a tiny aperture in the base to admit the traffic. The lofty gate was constructed around the same time as the Bara Imambara, after the design prepared by Kifayatullah.
It is the half of a vast dome cut perpendicularly, lavishly encrusted with ornamentations. It is built of lakhauri bricks, lime plastered and decorated with plaster mouldings with occasional use of stone. The gateway takes the form of a huge wide archway along with double-storeyed octagonal pavilion on either side while the parapet has a magnificent façade of multi-foiled arches in a row along with a number of miniature domes. The gateway is further divided by three medium size arched gateways in a semi- circular fashion, while there is another structure when viewed from back side (east) on the top of the gateway which shows a set of five doorways on each wall. The roof of this geometric structure culminates in a small platform crowned by an octagonal chhatri of red sandstone.
The Step Well or Shahi Baoli
Step Well, Bara Imambara Step Well, Bara Imambara
The Shahi Baoli, on the left when you face Imambara, is a typical Hindu architectural design. There is little doubt that it was built by Hindu kings, though at present it is an integral part of Nawab Asaf-ud Daula’s Imambara.
The step-well is currently in a very poor state and not maintained at all. It is dark, dingy and dangerous.
Bibliography
1. Historic Lucknow by Sidney Hay
2. A Glimpse of The Monumental Heritage of Lucknow by Archaeological Survey of India, Lucknow
3. Narrative of a Journey Through the Upper Provinces of India by Rev. Reginald Heber, Bishop of Calcutta
